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Alarm light on, freezer column working but fridge column warm? Or both columns lost temperature? We repair Thermador built-in refrigerators including Freedom Collection models. We replace inverter boards and repair defrost systems same day. If we don't fix it, you don't pay.
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Parts in the van. Came, fixed, done.
Press the Alarm button on the top panel to stop the beeping. The alarm triggered because the internal temperature rose above the set point — silencing it doesn't affect the underlying problem.
Is there a clicking sound every 5 minutes? That means the compressor is trying to start and can't — the inverter board or start circuit has failed. No clicking at all usually means the control board isn't sending the run signal.
Thermador columns have excellent thermal insulation. Food stays safe for 10–12 hours if you don't open the doors unnecessarily.
Thermador Technician · Orange
Thermador built-ins — especially Freedom Collection — are built on the same BSH architecture as premium Bosch models, with two independent circuits: a separate evaporator and, on some configurations, a separate compressor for each column.
That independence is actually useful when diagnosing: if one column is warm and the other is fine, the problem is isolated to that column's circuit. The most common failure is the inverter board that drives the compressor. A power surge burns it out; the display and interior lights stay on, but the compressor never starts.
The second common cause is a frozen evaporator from a defrost system failure. On T-series models with a TFT touchscreen, also note: a brief power outage can reset temperature settings — the unit looks broken but just needs to be reconfigured. I run a full diagnostic scan on arrival to separate these cases quickly.
Premium built-in appliance repair.
Clicking but no compressor hum. Temperature rising in one column (or both). The inverter board that drives the compressor has burned out — typically from a voltage spike. Requires board replacement.
Freezer column cold, refrigerator column warm. The evaporator is iced over, blocking airflow. Usually a burned defrost heater or failed NTC sensor. Most common on T36/T30 Freedom models between years 7–10.
Compressor runs normally but air doesn't circulate inside the column. The fan motor in that cabinet has burned out.
Fridge completely unresponsive (though interior light may work), or display shows E-series errors. Control board has failed. Also check: after a power outage, T-series TFT models may reset temperature targets — reconfiguring settings sometimes resolves what looks like a failure.
Fixed labor rates. We use genuine Thermador / BSH OEM parts.
| What broke | Labor (fixed) | OEM part | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Evaporator fan replacement | $120–$180 | $100–$180 | $250–$380 |
| Defrost heater / sensor replacement | $120–$180 | $80–$150 | $230–$350 |
| Inverter board replacement | $120–$180 | $180–$280 | $330–$480 |
| Main control board replacement | $120–$180 | $250–$400 | $400–$600 |
Premium appliance diagnostic: $150 — waived when you approve the repair.
Similar symptoms? Take a look — we fix it all.
Freezer works, but the fresh-food section is warm
Puddle under the refrigerator
Not making ice or not dispensing water
Humming, clicking, or vibrating
Clicking but won't start, or running with no cooling